THE ZHABDRUNG'S JACKFRUIT AT JAROGANG
Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal, the visionary figure behind the unification and statehood of Bhutan, fought numerous battles—both internal and external—to protect the land that this generation proudly calls Drukyül. His efforts to consolidate power were challenged not only by Tibetan forces under the Tsang Desi but also by the Five Lamas and other internal rivals.
Tibetan armies invaded Bhutan around 1629, 1631, and again in 1639, hoping to suppress Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal's growing influence before it spread too far (U.S. Library of Congress).
The Tibetan forces were so formidable that, at one point, the Zhabdrung was reportedly close to fleeing to India. While preparing to leave Bhutan, he reached a place called Dhey-chhu in Athang Gewog. There, his tutelary deity, Legoen Jaro Dongchen, appeared before him with the news that the Tibetan forces had been defeated, and urged him to abandon his plan to leave Bhutan immediately.
Overjoyed by the news, the Zhabdrung turned back. The place came to be known as Dhey-chhu (བདེ་ཆུ་), reflecting the comfort of mind he experienced upon hearing of the victory. Dhey means comfort, while chhu refers to the stream flowing nearby. Over time, the stream's name is said to have been corrupted, and it is now commonly referred to as Dikchhu.
On his journey back towards Wangdue, the Zhabdrung stopped at a place called Jarigang, or Jarogang, where a devout local patron, Zompa Chum, hosted him to a grand lunch. Among the food served was bondey rice.
The Zhabdrung fashioned two small self-images from rice dough and posed a question to each. He asked the first whether it would represent him in his mission to unify the country. In response, the statue bowed its head, signifying its willingness to undertake the task. This sacred rice statue is still preserved at Jarogang Lhakhang.
He then asked the second statue whether it would venture forth on its own journey and bless the place wherever it went. The statue responded positively and is believed to have flown southwards towards Tsirang. According to local tradition, the statue landed somewhere in Tsirang-Toe, although its exact location remains unknown.
Some elderly residents believe that the abundance of agricultural produce in Tsirang may be connected to this blessing: the Zhabdrung's own handmade rice statue is said to have carried his blessings to the region, enabling farmers to grow almost everything in abundance. Given the remarkable scale of agricultural production in Tsirang, particularly its vegetables and fruits, I find this local analogy rather compelling.
The Zhabdrung's affinity for fruits is also recorded in historical accounts. Jesuit priests from Portugal, Father Cabral and Father Cacela, who visited Bhutan around 1627, documented that the Zhabdrung lived largely on fruits and milk.
Perhaps fittingly, after the meal at Jarogang, Zompa Chum offered him a jackfruit. The Zhabdrung ate some of the fruit and, after praying, planted one of its seeds nearby. According to local tradition, he prayed that if his reign were to flourish across the country, and peace and prosperity were to prevail, the seed would grow into a fruit-bearing tree. He further prayed that its fruits would be offered to the Könchogsum.
Despite the altitude and climatic conditions being considered unsuitable for jackfruit cultivation in the area, the seed reportedly grew into a fruit-bearing tree through the thumön, or sacred prayers, of the Zhabdrung, according to Lam Tsechhu of Jarogang. Local people later attempted to grow jackfruit trees in the area several times, but all attempts reportedly failed.
I was also told by local residents that, for several years, the sacred tree stopped bearing fruit. It began producing jackfruit again after the annual Zhabdrung Kuchoe was initiated.
Customarily, around this time of year, the Lam of Jarogang goes around offering fruits from the Zhabdrung's jackfruit tree to the Kukhor, the Lam Neten of Wangdue Rabdhey, the People's Representatives, and the Dzongda.
Visitors to Jarogang can also see the Zhabdrung's chaagkhar, or wooden staff, which is believed to have grown into a large tree. Among the principal sacred objects (Nangtens) preserved in the lhakhang are the rice-made statue of the Zhabdrung and the copper-made Rangjung Kharsapani, distinct from the one at Punakha.
Around five years ago, my close friends and I had the rare privilege of offering a ghau, or sacred case, to the revered rice statue of Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal.
Jarogang is therefore more than a place associated with a sacred jackfruit tree. Its landscape preserves layers of history, faith, oral tradition and living religious practice—linking the Zhabdrung's struggle for unification with stories that continue to be passed down by the people who live there.
Sources: Lam Tsechhu and Nado, Dakar Gup
Photos: Gup Dawa Gyeltshen, Athang; Gup Nado, Dakar
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