LESS TRAVELLED TRAILS OF LAM DRUKPA KUNLEY (NAHI-GASELO)

Not many people seem to know about Nahi Gewog. Indeed, this gewog is truly a holy one with lots of nyes and monasteries. Those who admire the bizarre preaching of Lam Drukpa Kunley (1455–1529) may like the most to follow his trails in Nahi. 

After subduing Hinle-La dhoem (demon), Lam Drukpa Kunley, traveled through Nahi to present day Wangdue dzong. Folks warned Lam of the ferocious lake and cruel Tshomem (mermaid) who caused a lot of harm to cattle and people traveling by. Lam didn’t pay much heed to the warning and headed towards Wangdue. As reminded, the Tsho-mem below Khuja-La hurdled Lam’s passage with thundering sound and heavy mist. The lake literally rose to obstruct Lam from passing by. Annoyed, Lam returned and took the opposite road. As he reached Lhaling village, and from the place called Dho-Hobtok, he lifted a huge doegor (rock) and shot towards the lake. The lake bursted wild open, flooding heavily downward. The Tshomem escaped the place ever since. The doegor can be traced and also the flood remains can be seen. 

Instead of going back, Lam headed towards Gaselo. Before reaching Gaselo, he was hosted by a lady at Sa-sey-kha. The lady generously offered Lam with Bangchang (rice wine) and for snacks, served chicken fries. After relishing all the chicken pieces, Lam asked if she had prepared the whole chicken. She lied to Lam that she did. Lam used his spell, snapped his fingers over the chicken bones to check on her words. A new chicken was reborn and surprisingly found out missing a leg. The lady blushed in front of Lam. Some folks still believe that people encounter the one legged chicken during auspicious days. Some say, it is a bad omen if one encounters it. A Khenpo I consulted tells me that since it’s a phoenix created by an enlightened being, it can’t be inauspicious anyway.

From there, Lam continued his journey towards Gaselo. When he reached Teba-gangsa, he asked a cattle herder about the names of the villages. The herder told Lam the following names: Khatoe-kha, Tho kha, Zeykhato-kha, Matsi-kha, Chang-kha, Drapchey-kha, Tabchey-kha, Ge-kha and Heso-kha. Hearing the names of nine ‘Khas’, Lam told the herder, “I shall not proceed to the valley of nine mouths,” and returned from there. However, Lam blessed the entire valley by throwing Dru (blessed rice). The dru immediately formed Ruebs (blessed pellets) at Tebagangsa. They are being collected by people to heal various illnesses even today. (References from Namthar and oral literature)

These holy places are now connected with a farm road. Those who wish to visit may either take road from Nahi or Gaselo for pilgrimage. Get blessed! I had the honour of initiating this farm road with the generous support of MoAF, the Dzongkhag and the Gewog Adms.